I draw daily using watercolour pencils in a Moleskine watercolour (13 x 19 cm) sketchbook, which I love and will continue to use.
But sometimes I want to do a more “finished” drawing on a single A4 or A3 sheet. I have been trying to find the equivalent of my Moleskine textured paper in this format, as Moleskine do not make their own paper and cannot be bought in sheets.
Recently I have been also using a pad of Arches Smooth 300gsm , was getting increasingly frustrated with the interaction of my watercolour pencil, water and the paper . I was finding that the pencil pigment on the Arches gets “furry” or “fuzzy” as I pull the colour across the paper with water. This is the only way I can describe it.
In reality the difference is so subtle it is probably something that no one else would notice. So this is a very subjective review, as I am looking for something that suits me. But I thought I would share my experience.
I asked advice on Facebook groups and also looked online. I received a number of number of suggestions which I took to my local art shop Parkers in Sydney . After half an hour with a very patient assistant, I walked away with six sheets of paper (they did not have some of suggested brands : Aquabee, Holbein Rhodia & Levenger) . Even when I was in the shop I could see and feel the difference between the papers, although after a while they all started to look the same and I was a little overwhelmed, so I made my purchases and went home.
Of course when I got home I sketched my newly purchased papers
there are subtle differences in the colour of the papers
UPDATE 2015 – I found the perfect paper – .It is called University paper. I believe it is produced by St Cuthberts Mill in the UK . Available at Deans Art in Melbourne ! In sheets. 210 gsm
I have never tested papers before, so it was all experimental. I cut the paper into 13 x 19 cm rectangles (size of the Moleskine) . I had only recently discovered that papers have a front and back side to them, so I have one for each.
I decided to test the colours and shapes that I have been drawing recently . Ivory Black – a colour I use in feathers and Magenta for macarons. I did a scribble of colour and then spread it out with a paintbrush. I wrote my thoughts down immediately on the paper before moving onto the next one. Some were quite similar, but there was a difference.
Unfortunately the scans of the completed tests shows no difference between them. It looks like the same test fourteen times. so I won’t put them up online, but I will describe my immediate reactions and thoughts.
I have listed them from the best match to the least
The winner is ….
Lana 300 gsm Hot Press
FRONT – has more texture than back
BACK – smoother than front. Not furry at all spreads well
I then drew a whole egg, feather and macaron, just to double check. It feels good!
Here are the other papers I tested and my thoughts.
Fabriano Soft Press 300 gsm
BACK not furry & spreads well, but settles furry. Paper has a bit of texture , not good for fine lines of pencil only
FRONT Paper fells thick not furry
Canson Montval 300 gsm
FRONT Textured paper
BACK not furry at all. Too much texture on paper
Arches Smooth 300 gsm
BACK furry
FRONT furry
Bristol Board
Whoosh – glides off the page too smooth. Can’t get really dark lines
Fabriano Hot Press 300 gsm
FRONT Pigment does not spread well , stops and starts shows edges. A little more furry
BACK a little furry pigment does not spread well. stops and starts shows edges spread across spreads too much pigment
BACK a little furry pigment does not spread well. stops and starts shows edges spread across spreads too much pigment
Saunders Waterford 300 gsm HotPress
FRONT furry . takes pencil well on its own. Not so good with dark colours. Front more furry than Back
BACK a little furry
BACK a little furry
if anyone has any other thoughts or suggestions please let me know. I now just have to learn how to cut sheets into even papers….
Not sure exactly what you’re looking for Alissa – “furry” isn’t a word I’ve seen used in this context before 🙂 Are you talking about the texture of the paper or is it that the wetted pigment bleeds a little, giving soft edges?
I see you’ve chosen hot press (or smooth) for almost all the test papers, whereas Moleskine has a bit more texture than a typical watercolour hot press paper. Also, my feeling is that Moleskine has more sizing (sometimes not quite so evenly applied) than do the more usual watercolour paper sheets. Fabriano seems to have less sizing and therefore a tendency for pigment to bleed – it also has a rather soft surface which is easily damaged by erasure or too much working. Arches medium ( cold press) is OK gor painting but their 185 gsm hot press (smooth) seems to suck water in like blotting paper for me. Eckersleys are currently having a sale of Strathmore Watercolour Visual Journals in 190 gsm and 300 gsm in three different page sizes that maybe you should look at. Fairly smooth, but maybe not furry? I got some from Eckersleys and some from Dick Blick.
See
thanks Leigh ! I am not sure what I am trying to describe. (but it was a good process for me to go through). After I have made a marks on the paper with my pencil and add water and pull across the colour with a brush, little balls of pigment appear. It could be the sizing (this is a new world for me and I am learning a lot) of the paper and how it interacts with the pigment. Fabriano was highly recommended by many people and it was the ‘second best’ for me.
I probably could get used to drawing on other paper, but am being very picky and really don’t want to go on a re-learning curve with my watercolour pencils.
Are you using hot or cold press? I am currently experimenting with hot press. I have Arches and Fabriano. Both are lovely, being used to cold press I am enjoying the difference.
The papers I have tested all seem to be Hot Press. The texture seems to suit me and the results I am trying to achieve at the moment. One day I shall branch out with beautifully textured cold press.
I think, given your style of fine pencil work, that the smoother surfaces are what you need. So I’d be looking for something that was described as “Smooth” or as “Vellum”. Vellum usually has a very slightly textured surface that has a little more tooth than Hot Press or Smooth but not as much as Cold Press. Stillman & Birn have sketchbooks with Vellum finish on the paper.
Bear in mind that the paper you buy in full sheets is not always the same as the manufacturers put in their pads and sketchbooks, even though it might have the same name and description, so if it’s sketchbooks you want to use I’d be looking at what’s available there rather than at the full watercolour sheets. For one thing, the sizing can vary. Unless it actually claims to be suitable for watercolour and you can determine it does actually have some sizing I’d leave them alone. If they don’t say it’s suitable for watercolour then chances are it has no sizing.
Smooth or hot press doesn’t always take watercolour that easily and a significant hidden factor is the actual amount of surface sizing applied. You can only find that out by testing.
So I’d suggest you make a short list of the sketchbook papers you want to try based on surface and weight. You shouldn’t need 300 gsm – S&B 150 gsm is pretty good (surprisingly as I thought it would be too light), Strathmore 190 gsm looks OK and there are several others at 185-200 gsm to try (including the Moleskine which you already have as a known reference point). Then beg borrow or steal samples from your friends if they have any or else buy the smallest book or pad with a particular paper in it and run a full set of comparative tests. Compare notes with Liz Steel – she’s heavily into paper comparisons right now.
I have not come across any described as Vellum but will look for it. I am looking for sheets or A3 pads, as I am extremely happy with my Moleskine watercolour sketchbook to use everyday.
Lana 300 gsm Hot Press sheets seem to be the closest at the moment. It is very interesting to know that the blocks/sketchbooks may not be the same paper as their loosesheets even though they are named the same. Thanks for making me aware of this. I will look out for this. I’ll talk to Liz this weekend and will see if she has explored this (although I know she like a more textured paper)
Alissa, I don’t think you’ll find any full size watercolour sheets described as “Vellum” finish. I haven’t seen any – only in sketchbooks. Also, have you had a look at the paper in the Canson “Drawing 220” pad? I have an A2 pad but they make it in A3 as well. Got it from Art Scene. Mainly for dry and mixed media but I have used it for watercolour at a workshop. I live out at Camden but could cut a piece and mail it to you if you want. Same with the Strathmore. I can sacrifice a page in the interests of art. 🙂
Another thing, oils ain’t oils, and sizing ain’t sizing. There are natural sizings of different kinds and synthetic sizings in use so the only way to figure out what you like is to find a surface texture you like and then try samples of all the papers you can find with that type of surface. I know that Arches use a natural sizing on their “Aquarelle” papers but the rest of the range and the Canson papers I believe have different sizings used.
Here’s the good oil from Wikipedia. You will find a reference to “fuzzing” in here!
Sizing is used during paper manufacture to reduce the paper’s tendency when dry to absorb liquid, with the goal of allowing inks and paints to remain on the surface of the paper and to dry there, rather than be absorbed into the paper. This provides a more consistent, economical, and precise printing, painting, and writing surface. This is achieved by curbing the paper fibers’ tendency to absorb liquids by capillary action. In addition, sizing affects abrasiveness, creasibility, finish, printability, smoothness, and surface bond strength and decreases surface porosity and fuzzing.
There are three categories of papers with respect to sizing: unsized (water-leaf), weak sized (slack sized), and strong sized (hard sized). Waterleaf has low water resistance and includes absorbent papers for blotting. Slack sized paper is somewhat absorbent and includes newsprint, while hard sized papers have the highest water resistance, such as coated fine papers and liquid packaging board.
There are two types of sizing: internal sizing, sometimes also called engine sizing, and surface sizing (tub sizing). Internal sizing is applied to almost all papers and especially to all those that are machine made, while surface sizing is added for the highest grade bond, ledger, and writing papers.
Surface sizing[edit]
Surface sizing solutions consists of mainly modified starches and sometimes other hydrocolloids, such as gelatine, or surface sizing agents such as alkyl ketene dimer (AKD) or acrylic co-polymers. Surface sizing agents are amphiphilic molecules, having both hydrophilic (water-loving) and hydrophobic (water-repelling) ends. The sizing agent adheres to substrate fibers and forms a film, with the hydrophilic tail facing the fiber and the hydrophobic tail facing outwards, resulting in a smooth finish that tends to be water-repellent. Sizing improves the surface strength, printability, and water resistance of the paper or material to which it is applied. In the sizing solution, optical brightening agents (OBA) may also be added to improve the opacity and whiteness of the paper or material surface.
Internal sizing[edit]
Main article: Wet strength
Internal sizing chemicals used in papermaking at the wet end are alkyl succinic anhydride (ASA), AKD and rosin. By making the paper web more hydrophobic, the sizing agents influence dewatering and retention of fillers and fibers in the paper sheet. Next to paper quality, internal sizing agents’ main effect is on runability of the paper machine.
Wow – so much information ! thanks for sharing your knowledge. I will into it
Alissa, I too have been searching for my perfect paper although with different aims. Sizing os my biggest issue and so far I’ve only found that Arches and Stillman & Birn have excellent sizing. Strathmore is decent paper but not as well sized. (also, comes in that aforementioned vellum finish) Fabriano is loved by many as an economical choice but sizing is weak. I’ve heard that Stillman & Birn is available in large sheets but I haven’t chased down a source yet.
p.s. my “economical” paper of choice is (surprisingly) Quill, commonly available at stationers and newsagents. It has that nice smooth but slightly toothy quality and takes lighter washes well, and even is OK for wetter work (but then buckles) even though it’s only 125gsm. I just noticed their diaries come up to A3 size for $14 or 11″x14″ for $17: http://www.cavalierart.com.au/catalog/sketch-books/quill-art-journal-hard-bound
I have an A5 book if you’d like me to send you a page to try! Here are links to the last sketches I did in a Quill: https://flic.kr/p/nP3tYJ https://flic.kr/p/nKFC7C and one using wc pencil https://flic.kr/p/nkkqtX
(I have been trying Jasart Sketch & Write lately as an alternative but it doesn’t suit me and I’m going back to Quill soon!)